Kandahar Air Field

I am currently stationed at Kandahar Air Field otherwise known as KAF. The base is located about 15 miles southeast of Kandahar City. KAF has a large single airstrip and is supposed to be the busiest single runway airport in the world with 5000 flights daily. I believe it, given all of the air traffic I hear throughout the night. NATO fighter jets take off constantly as do helicopters. Larger military and commercial jets take off occasionally. The headquarters for KAF is located in a building on the airstrip known as TLS. This stands for Taliban's Last Stand. Kandahar was Taliban's last place of resistance in 2001 until the Marines took the airport. It's interesting walking through TLS as you can still see the bullet holes in the walls and a shattered wall thanks to a larger round.

There are currently ~30,000 people on KAF consisting of soldiers, sailors, air force and marines from nations all over the world as well as civilian contractors. It's basically the population of University Place plopped onto a built-up airfield. The place is hot, dusty and brown. A clean vehicle looks completely out of place. Whoever landed the deal for Toyota here made a mint. There are Toyota Hilux trucks and Hilux Surf SUVs everywhere, 2/3 with the steering wheel on the right.

My next posts will describe the sights, sounds and smells of KAF.

The picture was taken on the four minute walk from my billets to the DFAC for a meal.
The one story buildings are the mods were we live. The mountains in the background separate KAF from Kandahar City.

Sorry about the lack of posts!

All is well although somewhat mundane.
I'm caught in "Groundhog's Day" here. Up at the same time (for the most part), eat at the same DFAC, go to work and sit at the same desk doing the same type of work day after day. Eat lunch, work, go "home", workout in the same gym, eat dinner and sleep.
There's little to change the monotony. I do get to go to a Preventive Medicine meeting on Thursday afternoons. Actual medicine!! Well, sort of. Talks have turned to the effluent coming from the "Poop-Pond" and how we are discharging nastiness onto the Afghanistan country-side. Afghanis have discovered that fruits and vegetables grow quite well in that area!

Anyway, I'll get to more frequent blogging shortly.
I leave you with wisdom from the side of the box of Emirates Natural Drinking Water (our bottled water)...

PURE - Ingredient Water Purity
FRESH - Safe, Reliable & Sustainable Fresh Water
NATURAL - Recovery of Valuable By-Products
ORIGINAL - With Cutting-Edge Technology
TASTE - Proven & Preferred by People

"So I got that goin' for me, which is nice"

25cents and a bottle of Emirates water for first to name that quote

My Living Quarters

I live in a "mod". This is a fixed structure (not a tent) that has 7 individual rooms that sleep 4 people each. I have 2 room-mates with capacity for 1 more. As you can tell from the picture, we have single beds. Lower ranks have the dreaded bunk beds and the same size room sleeps 8. I have a bed, an "Ikea-like" wardrobe and night stand.
There is also 1 desk that my two room-mates use (they offered to share, but they were here first). There is also a small fridge and a microwave. The room is not uncomfortable, just functional. At the end of the hallway is a good sized latrine (bathroom) with 4 sinks and 3 showers. I've never had to wait for a shower. Not much else to comment on except the rooms have internet for $70/month for the "Gold" package that moves along at dial-up speed. I may try the "Platinum" package next month for $30 more to see if there's any difference. There's not much to do in the room except sleep, internet, read or watch movies on the laptop.

We Have Lift OFF!!!!

The small-pox scab, I mean...
It's only been 3 1/2 weeks!

Repatriation Ceremony

Our Medical Director has asked all available personnel to attend repatriation ceremonies when they occur. I went to my first just over one week ago and I was going to write a post on it. Instead I found a commentary by Lt. Col. Christopher O. Darling, 451st Expeditionary Missions Support Group Deputy Commander, that expresses my emotions exactly...

3/5/2010 - Kandahar Airfield, Afghanistan -- Before I even got to work yesterday, I knew there was going to be a Ramp ceremony. The route to the U.S. Air Force compound goes by the base commander's building, and flags flying at half-staff will tell you in an instant that the Coalition has suffered a loss in combat. On this day, the word went out a U.S. Marine was killed in action in Marjah, and the dignified transfer of remains ceremony would take place on the aircraft parking apron at 2 p.m.

It felt almost hot on the ramp. Even though it's still February in Afghanistan, the afternoon temperature was in the 70's as personnel began to gather for this event. Soldiers, sailors, Marines and Airmen from the United States and from all the countries of the coalition began to arrive in groups in order to send home the fallen Marine. People stood around at the edge of the ramp waiting for the appointed time, while the grey-painted C-17 transport with a Dover Air Force Base, Del., tail flash squatted with open cargo bay doors on the ramp. Normal conversations were still taking place throughout the crowd, but they gradually began to die away as the atmosphere of the event began to infiltrate among the gathered military troops.

Finally, a contingent of Marines formed up and marched to the rear of the C-17 to form the inner cordon of honor. Then formations of troops of all services and all nations began to build and march into place behind the Marines. Australians, French, Dutch, and British were all there; hundreds of military personnel in total. The sight of the British sergeant major with some sort of ornamental cudgel fashioned from a thorny tree branch reminded me of their long military traditions and that they in particular have been in this place a lot longer than we have. The British army was deployed and fighting in Afghanistan 170 years ago. Then a US Army sergeant major stepped forward and issued instructions to my formation, pronouncing us the "VIP" formation of E-9s and O-5s and above--a label everyone present recognized as patently absurd, because clearly the troops in the inner cordon, not the brass, were the only VIPs present.

In any case, we marched to the rear of the aircraft, took our positions along with the rest of the gathered troops, and assumed Parade Rest.

A command rang out, and the formation snapped to attention as a Marine color guard marched forward. A Navy chaplain stepped to a lectern and began to speak, and the massed personnel strained to hear the words, but it was difficult. The auxiliary power unit on the C-17 emitted a constant whine.

The buzz of two fighter jets taking off on the runway added to the background. And the roar of arriving cargo planes also intruded, but this is an active airfield in combat, and missions cannot be stopped.

Troops in the field are in contact with the enemy, and close air support missions have to take off. Helicopters clatter around constantly.

Transport aircraft completing journeys of 10,000 miles or more arrive overhead, low on fuel, and urgently have to land. Kandahar Airfield never closes, not even for a ceremony like this. The Chaplain's words provided some fragments of information, and we all took in what we could: United States Marine ... 24 years old ... Camp Lejeune, North Carolina ... leaves behind a young wife.

Later we would read reports from the field that it may have been a single rifle shot from very long range that felled this Marine, but we can't be sure.

A sand-colored Mine-resistant, Ambush-Protected vehicle drove slowly to the back of the cordon and stopped. These MRAPs are 40,000 pound trucks that constitute the standard for combat vehicles in today's world, and it was fitting a vehicle like this rather than some sort of ambulance was chosen to transport this warrior. The casket was passed from the back of the truck into the hands of the detail chosen from his fellow Marines.

Another command rang out, and the multi-national formation snapped to attention and right hands were raised in unison, and held, in salute.

Several long moments passed, with no sound except the snap of the color guard flags in the wind and the whine of the jet's APU. My hand is at the brim of my hat now, and I can see nothing to my right, although I know the detail must surely be approaching. And then suddenly the six-man detail appears before me, marching slowly and carrying the casket of one of America's best on their shoulders.

The casket is wrapped by the stars and stripes, folded and pressed and cinched tight at the corners, and the long aluminum box is barely disturbed by the footsteps of the Marines as they carry it smoothly and gingerly to the waiting aircraft. The flag is startling to see, its colors seeming impossibly bright compared to the dusty tan and grey and drab green background of this place.

The second man in the detail on my side is visibly stricken, his face a mask of grief as he carries his comrade on the first leg of his journey home. As the detail passes in front of me at a distance of maybe 20 feet, I watch the second man and I see that the arm of the Marine opposite him in the detail is extended beneath the casket. That man's hand is in the center of the second Marine's back, clenching his uniform blouse in his fist, physically holding him upright even as they walk together carrying their burden.

It's a sight I'll never forget. And then I'm physically reminded of the anger and hurt I feel for this warrior and his comrades and his family. It will always affect me, no matter how many of these ceremonies I have witnessed since 2004.

Seeing a sight like those Marines carrying their comrade, that's when you feel your jaw take a set; that's when you feel your throat constrict; that's when it suddenly gets hard to breathe.

And then the detail passes into the aircraft and is out of sight. The whir of the electric motors raising and closing the aircraft cargo ramp adds to the sounds of the scene, followed by the thumps and clangs of the ramp toes as they fall with a clatter as the ramp raises past the vertical. The electric motor stops, and suddenly the ceremony is over.
The formation faces to the aircraft for one final salute, and then we all disperse and walk away lost in our own thoughts until the next time we have to again gather on The Ramp.

Mike again...
I remember the details completely. 20 year old Marine from Minnesota, stationed in Hawaii leaving behind his parents and young wife. My throat tightened and a tear dropped as the casket passed by. Taken far too young...

Kabul

Again, we are up here for various meetings and conferences.

Day 1: Travel here and an informal meeting with an Air Force Colonel and Canadian 1 star General. We discussed various topics regarding RC(S) as well as challenges training the ANA (Afghan National Army) and ANP (Afghan National Police) in medical issues. Had a nice dinner at the DFAC and good night's sleep at the "Kabul Palace". Slept on the bottom bunk, Ewan got a single bed.

Day 2: Meeting at the Ministry of Public Health (picture of his desk) at 1000 where Ewan discuss indoor air polution. The number one cause of mortality in AFG is acute respiratory illnesses. The cause of this is indoor air polution. The majority of the Afghan population lives in huts. The have an open fire in the huts for heat, light and cooking and there is no ventilation. They use biomass as fuel. This includes wood (if they can find it), dried dung and poppy stems after the harvest. As resources have become scarce, they are now using strips of tire and plastic water bottles as fuel. Imagine living in an unventilated hut surrounded by this noxious smoke day after day. As a solution, Ewan wants to investigate fuel-efficient, culturally-sensitive stoves that are ventilated. This has been done in China and India for years. He presented his case to the minister's aid and it went very well.

After lunch, we met with USAid at the US Embassy to discuss medical seminars in the provinces. USAid is an organization founded by JFK to manage donations for humanitarian use. Big, big player here. Fortunately, this meeting that went well also. Not much to do after that so I caught up on more internet stuff (e-mail, reviewing work sent to me from UP Clinic, etc). Moved my stuff to the top bunk so COL Bricknell (our boss) could have the bottom bunk when he arrived later.

Day 3: Meeting in the "beer garden" (in quotes because General Order #1 is no alcohol. That's a pic of Ewan) at 1000 with more military folks to coordinate medical efforts in the upcoming Kandahar push. This lasted until 1130 then off to lunch. In the afternoon had a medical conference where representatives from various humanitarian organizations spoke. Had to leave the conference somewhat early to catch the up-armored "shuttle" back to Kabul Airport. Once there, I got my billeting that was in the "transient tents" - top bunk again and the mattress was a bit dodgey (the Brits language is rubbing off on me!). They had computers in the MWA tent so I was able to call Jolene on her cellphone via Skype. Quite nice as we hadn't talked in days (sorry I woke you so early during spring break!) We have another seminar tomorrow that is strictly military medical support.

Day 4: Up, showered, ate breakfast and off to the seminar. The morning was spent with various military speakers discussing issues coming "down" to the regional commands and the afternoon was spent with the 5 regional commands briefing "up". Our brief was given by a medops (medical operations) Captain from Scotland. There were at least 3 generals present at various times. This ended at 1700 and I spent the rest of the early evening catching up on e-mails and reading about the Mariner's loss at Oakland. Snagged the bottom bunk as most of the folks left. My flight back to Kandahar leaves at 0725 with 0525 check in. Should get back to KAF by 0900, Inshallah!

Day 5: Up at 0500 and off to the airfield. Boarded the C-130 through the rear ramp and took off for Kandahar at 0815. Arrived an hour later to 85 degree temps. Much, much warmer in the south. Got to 90 degrees today. Spent the rest of the day
working out, showering, lunch and then 4-5 hours at RC(S).

Smallpox watch: For those interested, nearly 2 weeks and counting since innoculation and the scab hasn't fallen off yet! I can post a picture if you'd like. Let me know in the comments ;-]

Flight to Kabul

Easter Sunday was the first day of a 5 day trip to Kabul for various meetings and two conferences. The trip actually started the night before because we didn't know what flight we were taking Sunday morning. I worked a full Saturday, ate dinner at 1830 and then went to my room to work the internet. I then had to go back to to the RC(S) compound at 2100 to see when our flight leaves. 45 minutes later the Captain returns saying we have the 0600 flight with 0400 show time! Little sleep for me.

Up at 0315, showered and 10 minute walk to the air terminal to meet LTC Cameron. We checked in and had to run all of our stuff through the "x-ray" machine (including my M-9 pistol!). Unfortunately, it was noticed that my body armor did not have "plates" and I couldn't board without them. Rules are rules, you know. Walked back to my room, scrounged through the duffels under my bed (while trying not to wake my room-mates) and pulled out the two 8 pound plates. Back to the flight line having had my workout for the day! Another hour wait and then boarded the plane.

Ends up we weren't flying directly to Kabul. An hour and a half later, we landed in the northern AFG city of Mazir-e Sharif. Lovely place actually. Reboarded the Canadian C-130 after half hour layover and off to Kabul. Wrong! An hour and 20 minutes later we landed in the far western AFG city of Herat. Short layover and then off to Kabul. 1 hour ten minutes later and we landed at KAIA (Kabul International Airport) and waited for our transport to ISAF (International Security Assistance Force) Headquarters. Ate a cold hamburger and waited some more.

The UK transport team arrived at 1415 consisting of an armored van and two armored Toyota SUV's. We were given a briefing explaining what to do if something went wrong during the 10 minute ride. We climbed into the back of the Toyota in full "battle rattle" (helmet, body armor, etc). The ride was uneventful. Arrived at ISAF HQ at 1500.
0600 flight - 1500 arrival = 9 hours to travel to Kabul!

The picture is at KAIA. For the folks who haven't tried it yet, if you click on the picture, they get bigger for better viewing.

First Real Day

Up at 0530 because my body said so. Ate breakfast at Luxemborg DFAC and happended to meet up with LTC (UK) Cameron for whom I work.
Jolly good chap.
Then walked over to the boardwalk and called Jolene from the AT&T call center for a few minutes. Calling card is $22 for 140 minutes from AFG (recently found out Skype is much cheaper (2 cents per minute to a landline, works great)). Had to be at ISAF RC(S) compound by 0730 this AM. That acronym stands for International Security Assistance Force (NATO) Regional Command South. My official title is RC(S) Stability Division Medical Advisor. Whatever that is...
Listened to the daily update at 0745 that included any conflict incidents from the previous day for RC(S), had another meeting at 0830 with COL (UK) Bricknell who is the big boss. Then had a "conference" that lasted from 1000 to 1700 with 45 minutes for lunch. This was an interface between the ISAF folks (military) and NGO's (Non-governmental orginizations - Red Cross, etc) and PRT (Provincial Reconstruction Teams) representatives regarding health and education. I've quickly come to realize there are huge amounts of money coming into AFG to rebuild the country. Very large pie and everyone wants a say on how their piece is utilized. Interestingly, there were 15 people involved in this conference and all of the military were male and all others were female.
Got out of there ~1730, worked out and had a salad for dinner. What's become of me???

The picture is the "building" on RC(S) compound where LTC Cameron, Kristen (USAid) and I work. Like every building here, it has A-C!

1st Day in Kandahar

Awoke at 0400 to the sound of "fsst, BOOM; fsst, BOOM". Damn, are we under attack? I looked around and no one else was scurring about so I figured they were "ours outgoing". Turns out they were practicing! If it was a rocket attack, there would of been sirens. They haven't had one in weeks.

Awoke again at 0745, dressed and went across the street to the "boardwalk" for breakfast. The boardwalk is truly a wooden boardwalk around a dirt field the size of a regular baseball field. Stores line the boardwalk that include BK, Subway, Mama Mia pizza and a very popular Canadian coffee and doughnut shop called Tim Horton's. I decide to a get large latte from a French coffee shop. Three bucks, not bad! Talked to Jolene through the AT&T call center while I finished the latte. Next off to billeting to get a "permanent" room. They gave me the same type of room but with 4 single beds, a small fridge and microwave. I have two room-mates. Bill is a Captain in the Navy and Bruce is an Air Force Colonel and an internal medicine physician. We're all the same rank which is how they house you.

I met with a Civil Affairs liason who walked me to the NATO area where I'll be working. Met Dr. Ewan Cameron who is a physician in the British Army and a public health doc. He was meeting with two visiting NGO (non-Governmental Organization) representatives concerning humanitarian assistance and I sat in not understanding much.

I then went off with a Canadian captain to inprocess and meet various folks at Regional Command South. My official title is Stabilizing Division Medical Advisor.
I've got some work to do to get up to speed with all of the jargon and who does what around there. Lots of UK, Canadian and Dutch troops. Spent the rest of the evening unpacking and organizing my one wall cabinet (which is plenty) and my bed area.
Back to work at 0730 tomorrow so off to sleep...

For anyone interested, my address is...

COL Michael Johnson
ISAF RC(S) HQ Stability Division
APO AE 09355

If you really must send me something, I like the Gatorade packets to put in the ubiquitous bottled water that is everywhere.
I haven't made it through my 5 packs of beef jerkey, yet (Jolene!)

I Thought Yesterday was Lost!

Awoke in Kuwait, showered and ate breakfast. Went to flight manifest call at 1000. This roll call keeps you on the flight list. For the flight to Bagram Air Base, we had to be back at noon. This next manifest call got you on the plane. As an O-6, I'm near the top of the list (considered a "DV" or distinguished visitor. I bet a lot of folks would argue that one!) so getting a flight wasn't difficult. Unfortunately, quite a few folks who came with me from Ft Benning had to wait until the next flight in the evening.

I had 45 minutes to lug my four duffel bags from my tent to the flight tent in 85 degree heat. We then waited until 1430 then loaded the buses to the airfield. Loaded through the open back end of a C-17. The flight to Manas, Kyrgyzstan took 5 hours in a noisy, cramped plane. We then had a 3 hour layover at an Air Force terminal. (came to learn we were delayed because President Obama made a surprise visit to Bagram). Boarded the same plane for a 2 hour flight to Bagram Air Base. I completely lost track of day and time.

My troubles with the Civil Affairs unit continue. While almost everyone else had a point of contact here at Bagram, I was left standing in the reception area trying to call my contact in Kabul. No luck for 2 hours so I sat around the terminal receiving area. The folks in the office started dialing random numbers that they found on Outlook until I got a live person. He transferred me to a contact who knew of me and told me to get the next flight to Kandahar. So now I sit in the "DV" lounge for the next 3 hours typing and waiting for the next flight manifest.
Is it Monday? Random thought, I forgot how much I "missed" AFN (Armed Forces Network) public service announcements. They don't have commercials so all you see are PSA's.
I'll update when I get to Kandahar...


Well the first flight manifest at 1145 didn't have any "Space A" for passengers. Walked to a DFAC (dining facility) and had lunch next to two soldiers from New Zealand. I'm amazed at how many different nations are represented here.
Next manifest at 1300 also no Space A. Now I have to wait until 1630 for the last manifest to Kandahar for the day. If I don't make it, I'll have to get billeting and stay the night.

Fortunately, I made that last flight on a C-130. Canvas jump seats line the bulkheads and down the center of the plane. Most uncomfortable 1 hour flight I've ever had. Had to change position every 5 minutes or my butt would fall asleep.
Swiped into Kandahar and another colonel who was getting picked up asked if I needed a ride. You bet! It was late and dark and my only other option was to catch a bus to billeting with my 4 bags. Got a temporary room (4 bunk room, top bunk again) and a good night's sleep.

The Lost Day

Friday at CRC is travel day. No 0500 formation to attend so I got a great night's sleep. Still no TCS (temporary change of station) orders this morning so I'll either be going to Afghanistan or going home. This orders messup has been one frustrating fiasco.

Lo and behold, I was notified at 0930 that my correct orders had been e-mailed and I can fly to Kuwait. Imagine that!!

Later this morning we place all of our duffel bags under the big pavilion so the military working dogs can inspect them. We then filed onto buses and went to Ft. Benning's Lawson Airfield and "Freedom Hall". Pretty nice place to hang out for 4 hours prior to the flight. We had the mandatory briefings (did you know hijacking is illegal? Neither did I!) and then a hot meal prior to the flight. We then filed out the door, took congratulations and shook some hands and walked out onto the tarmac to the awaiting chartered MD11.

Higher ranking officers got 1st class seating so I was in the 1st row, window seat. Sure was nice during the long flight. We flew to Leipzig Germany and waited in a small terminal for the plane to refuel and then off to Kuwait. The flight to Germany was 12.5 hours and the flight to Kuwait was 4.5 hours. Got into Kuwait ~1600 local, bused to a parking lot and waited 2 hours to coordinate our 45 minute trip to Ali al Salem Air Base.

As a colonel, I got to in-process ahead of the others and was able to "swipe" into country, arrange my flight to Bagram Air Base and obtain billeting within 15 minutes. By swiping my military ID card, I've started the 90 day ticker! We then got in long lines to unload our duffel bags from the semi-tractor trailers. By now it's 2200 local time. I'm hot and sweaty from the baggage and laying on the top bunk cooling off.

Some assorted smell tidbits for the family...
The bus from Kuwait Airport smelled like Willie.
The latrines smelled like the LaBelle's cabin outhouse.

CRC Concluded

Sorry about the lack of blog posts. Became quite busy with CRC and frustrated with my order situation so I'll summarize both...

CRC

Monday - up early, signed credentialing paperwork, went through medical readiness and had HIV drawn (again), had hearing tested (I have some mild high frequency hearing loss to Jolene's delight), received anthrax, hep B and smallpox vaccinations and was medically cleared. We then went to equipment issue and stood in more lines.

Tuesday - Went to soldier readiness processing to take of personnel and finance issues then received more clothing issue and M-9 pistol. Went back to CRC and promptly turned the weapon in to the armor.

Wednesday - went to briefings and practical walk-throughs on unexploded ordinance and IEDs in the morning and had the afternoon off because they were training on first aid. Unfortunately, the afternoon was wasted dealing with my orders (see below).

Thursday - up really early (0415) to draw our weapons and then off to PMI (Primary Marksmenship Instruction) and then to the range to fire. I qualified hitting 19/30 targets. Had the afternoon off again which I spent packing and repacking the 4 duffel bags.

Friday - flight day


Orders Fiasco.

I didn't get my mobilization orders until 3 weeks prior to CRC. This was way too late and the orders had me deploying to Iraq. I tried to get this fixed multiple times but was told "we're working on it" or "that change is levels above us". Once I got to CRC, I was issued items based on Iraq and also couldn't get my flight manifested because of the error. This culminated in my removal from the manifest list.

That happened Wednesday afternoon and I was told the orders needed to be fixed or I'd be REFRAD (released from active duty). I called my contact at Ft. Bragg who said he was working on it and would call me back in 1-2 hours. He never did.
I called him back and he said he contacted a Leutenant Colonel at higher head quarters who said this was "an easy fix". Heard that before. He said he'd call me by 1400 the next day. He never did. I went to sleep Thursday night figuring I was either going to Afghanistan or going home. No word Friday morning as soldiers were lining up to sign out and get their packets...
0920 I was e-mailed that my orders were fixed and ready for pickup. Off we go...